Aaron’s Cosmos Experience:

Two weeks, 700 nautical miles and five Polynesian islands have passed, been sailed and been visited since Anton and I boarded Cosmos in Papeete, Tahiti as the first part-time crew to join the circumnavigation. As our small leg of the circumnavigation draws to a close, I have, naturally, been reflecting on and taking inventory of the journey. So what is the cruising life aboard Cosmos really about?

When we boarded for the first time at 2 am on 10/15, Dad, George and Don were certain to remind Anton and me of some of the more important rules of sailing and safety on the boat (e.g. one hand for yourself and one hand for the boat). However, over the course of the trip, I have observed that there are some "unspoken rules" which are equally critical to a safe and happy passage such as, "one Snicker’s bar for you, and one for each of the other hands on the boat…., plus another for me when you are sleeping." Like any well-run sailing vessel, rules are designed to govern as well as help ensure discipline in the "harsh" climate and life in the Polynesian islands. Another includes a self-imposed happy hour which may not start before 3:30 pm. However, starting time restrictions may be waved at the suggestion of at least one crew member during certain weather conditions (i.e., if it is sunny and the temp exceeds 75 degrees,….hmm). Not surprisingly, a vote is typically unnecessary. Other rules include:

• Nutella may serve as a substitute to any food group. If at least three portions are consumed in one sitting, it may be counted toward two food groups
• Showers and shaving are optional (Captain suggests taking at least one a week, but fails to practice what he preaches in this case)
• Sleeping is considered aerobic exercise during passages.

More seriously, the two weeks aboard Cosmos have been outstanding. The relaxing pace of life, the simplicity of island existence, the lack of daily news reporting all stand in stark contrast to the surroundings I left behind in London. The beauty of the islands are difficult to capture in words or pictures. The visual impact, alone, during an approach from Cosmos is dramatic. The lush green landscape and rock which seem to have been pushed straight up from the crystal clear water are breathtaking. The people are memorably gentle, welcoming and good-natured, much more so than most places in the world I have had a chance to visit. We have swum, snorkeled, fished, hiked, biked, eaten well and certainly slept well. There aren’t any particular events that I would consider the most memorable experience as the entire trip runs through my memory like a highlight film. Some of the most memorable experiences include:

• Catching a 40 lb Mahi Mahi (and grilling it for lunch just 2 hours later)
• Hiking to the top of Mount Temehani Rahi with its panoramic views of the coral and lagoons below
• Snorkeling and diving among the thousands of brilliantly colored exotic fish and coral in Bay of Povai in Bora Bora
• The night sky during one overnight passage (10/25) which was so clear that an infinite number of stars seemed visible
• Swimming, then drying on the deck of Cosmos under the evening sun (waiting for the green flash, right Don)

Thanks Don, George and Dad for helping to make the stay a memorable one. Briefly, the way in which the crew works together is worth noting. They are all well-suited to one another and have all the skills that seem requisite for such a voyage -- Don’s sure-handed fix-it abilities and cooking skills, George’s remarkable technical talents, and the Captain’s keen ability to know not to interfere with either (just kidding) and everyone’s’ good sense of humor -- all keep Cosmos in great working and living condition.

Anton’s Cosmos Experience:

Assigned to the helm for the next three hours on night watch I write down our coordinates into the log and realize that my two-week stay on board of Cosmos is slowly coming to an end. Two weeks full of new experiences for someone who has not had much of a sailing experience so far. Starting in Papeete, Tahiti, Aaron and I joined the Cosmos crew on their passage to Rarotonga, Cook Islands, with stopovers in Moorea, Raiatea, and Bora Bora.

Having been raised in land-locked Southern Germany, I have to admit that it took me a couple days to get used to life on board, but "the patch", and some stomach pills helped me to attain "sea legs".

I was soon impressed by the comfort on board of Cosmos thanks to its many "toys". There is the super snorkel, the water maker that transforms sea water into drinking water, the solar panels and the air- and water powered generator supplying us with energy, and last but not least the fully equipped kitchen and fine cabins.

Thanks to Captain Joe’s invaluable navigational skills and the crew’s diligent maintenance of Cosmos’ hardware and technology, with George and Don never getting tired of drilling new holes into the boat, I felt totally safe for most of the time.

In addition, I have to mention the excellent cuisine varying from morning pan-cakes, a specialty of Don, to exquisite Mahi Mahi, freshly caught, cleaned and prepared by Aaron.

We all enjoyed the time on our onshore visits, exploring each island’s characteristic geography, nature, and cultural life. Snorkeling and discovering the beautiful sea-life at the coral reefs of Bora Bora, hiking the highest mountain on Moorea, enjoying poisson cru in Papeete or me being instructed in local dances on Rarotonga – under close supervision of the crew - made this trip unforgettable.