N 09^o 08.8', W 79^o 49'

Currently transiting Ganton Lake, Panama. Stayed on anchor in Crisobol on Atlantic side from July 5, to July 13 (today).

We left Crisobol at 0430 after our Canal Passage Advisor came aboard. Our trip across this freshwater lake is 22 miles. Then we enter the infamous 7 mile long Gaillard Cut. We passed through three locks up on the Atlantic side and we will go down through three locks on the Pacific side. Lock operations are well organized and efficient. We have heard stories, but our trip so far has been nothing but interesting and enjoyable. We hope to make the entire passage today.

Ganton Lake is the source for all water to fill the canal locks. Panama pumps no water, it all flows from the lake. Ganton Lake is at the top of the continental divide, 33 meters above sea level, and 192 million gallons of water flow from the lake to fill each lock for a single passage.

Back in Colon, I got the feeling that I was in a wild, wild, west town. Sort of not knowing for sure what the next person you meet might do. Knowing there were places that I could go where people would almost certainly attack me in the day or night. Being careful not to go onto such a street for any reason. Walking within steps of such places, but not crossing the line. Seeing guards all carrying guns and many sawed-off shotguns, even in the grocery stores. I never felt unsafe, just tantalized by the notion of severe danger was so close by. Just like the feeling you get when you watch an exciting western movie.

Work on the boat in Cristobol went well. Of 59 work items, we completed 42. Major items included removing the big cabinet from the Saloon, fixing water leaks, upgrading the steering bolts, diagnosing faulty regulator (new one should be waiting at Balboa Yacht Club on the Pacific side), purchase bigger dinghy, install lines to secure books, first conversion of the generator from water source to wind source, and through bolted every screw that pulled on the trip from Florida to Panama. We ate at the Panama Canal Yacht Club so many times that Grace, our waitress, special ordered a cake for our last night.

The new dinghy is almost a necessity (a lovely necessity). Our old one is a roll-up Avon and great for up to three people. It is low to the water, so any wave makes the occupants wet. The new one has a hard bottom and inflatable sides and bow. It is much higher, suitable for four or five people, and keeps us dry in waves up to about 1 foot. Going to and from shore, one foot to two foot waves are not uncommon even on the "flats" of Cristobol. Someone once told me that our dinghy will be as important to us as our automobile at home. I had underestimated the truth of statement until now.

Next stop Balboa/Panama City. We hope we have several packages waiting at the BYC. We expect to spend one night and then go to one of the Panama islands, where we understand it is lovely, and the fishing is great. We still haven't caught our first fish.