July 7, 2001

The Cosmos Adventure - News

July 7, 2001

Cristalbol/Colon, Panama

N 09^o20.7', W 79^o55'

Underway for 258 hours from Ft. Lauderdale to Panama (10 days plus 18 hours). Total distance estimated at 1500 miles, average speed of 5.8 knots (6.9 MPH). Highest boat speed was in 25 knot winds with 12 foot seas at 9.1 knots (with full main and double reefed genoa. Highest winds in gusts were probably up to 35 knots. Highest seas estimated at 20', but they were nicely spaced rollers (for the most part).

Arrived in Panama at 0830 local time, 0930 ECT, and 0550 UTC on 7/7/2001. We left Ft. Lauderdale at 1500 ECT on 6/24 and mostly motored to Key West. Arrived Key West 45 hours later at 1200 ECT on the 6/26. Left Key West 8 hours later at 2000 on 6/26 and arrived 213 hours later.

Total fuel (diesel) consumption was 25 gallons: about 16 gallons to generate iron wind and 9 gallons just to generate electricity. Without the water turbine electricity generator, fuel consumption would have probably doubled. Remaining fuel included 75 gallons in tanks and 60 gallons in jerry cans.

Overall, travel to Panama went very well. Routing/navigation worked superbly to overcome wind directions. From Key West to Cuba, wind could have been directly astern but we maintained a port tack to sight of Cuba, then starboard tack to clear end of island, then back to port tack through Yucatan Peninsula. SE winds forced us more to west than desired, so pushed as much to windward as boat would handle for five days. Once confident we were sufficiently east, we stayed on Starboard tack, headed 180 on one and half day approach to Cristalbol breakwater. Arrival in Cristalbol (the port) and Colon (the city) in Panama was gratifying and exciting.

Cristalbol Signal Station ("approach control") was very busy and extremely courteous and professional in treating our little 45' pleasure craft with same respect as supertankers. At their request, we reported position at four times starting one mile from breakwater and ending in anchorage area. Hats off to the Station Control.

It was our good fortune to drop anchor next to Paul Jauncey, world sailor, Shipwright and Marine Engineer, his wife, Linda, and two sons, Simon and Daniel. The Jaunceys have been traveling for nine years on a wooden trawler that Paul built. This is his second trip. His first lasted seventeen years. Their boat, Dreamworld, is the smallest trawler ever to make a transatlantic crossing. His articles are published in Passagemaker magazine in the USA and Motor Boats magazine in England. He has built and rebuilt boats all over the world. Paul and Linda were very nice to go ashore with Cosmos crew to walk us around the city to clear immigrations, customs and obtain a cruising permit. Paul is upgrading Cosmos steering bolts that broke and bent on passage to Panama, and giving other help to improve Cosmos for continued adventure. Paul and Simon will join Cosmos for their eleventh trip through the Canal. Their presence is expected to make our passage much more enjoyable.

Some interesting notes on Cristalbol, port anchorage.

Cristalbol has many huge tankers on anchorage and passing, but very few marine facilities.

Ship, tug and pilot boat traffic is busy and fun to watch.

Anchorage here is much cooler than our dock in Ft. Lauderdale (so far).

New shading tarps make Cosmos feel 10 degrees cooler in noon-day sun.

Some interesting notes on Colon.

Colon is small. Everything is in walking distance, but not necessarily safe to walk to.

People demonstrated/marched/got mad, about four weeks ago because of unemployment (50%+) and condition of the town. Government must have given cleanup jobs because 5-foot mid-city weeds are trimmed, entire city-blocks of garbage are gone, and sidewalks were swept before our arrival.

Safe streets and unsafe streets are distinct (when we were walking, people in cars and walking would stop unsolicited to volunteer advice not to go down certain streets or beyond some point on the same street.

Reys Supermarket is amazing. If there were no people inside Reys, it would be hard to know you are not in the Giant or Safeway in Maryland. Reys carries almost every brand our U.S. supermarkets carry, name brand items are much cheaper than in Sam’s Club, and you don't need a shopping cart for each item you buy. I believe this is the last time we will have any access to such a food selection at any price. Of course we provisioned as if Ft. Lauderdale was our last access.

Shortly after our arrival, George converted our water turbine electricity generator to use its wind turbine. What a wonderful device. The large solar panels we have must be nice too, but they do not generate nearly the electricity of this wonderful turbine generator.

John has disassembled our saloon cabinet table. We are trying to find two marine table pedestals to remount just the center table top and one leaf. This should eliminate the most nerve-shattering noise made when a wave slams against the underside of the deck between the two hauls. The cabinet was a very heavy, fine piece of furniture, and the centerpiece of the main room on the boat, but in the horse latitudes, you throw horses overboard, if you must.

We are once again spending long, hot days making the boat the best it can be to continue our adventure. In Ft. Lauderdale, we eliminated all but a few post-it to-do notes from our saloon wall. On our first day of arrival in Panama, we posted 59 to-do-notes. We have completed about six items so far. The list includes routine items, such as, "do all laundry", to more significant items, such as, "find and fix leak." These leaks are probably around a fitting such as a cleat, grab rail or stanchion that passes through the deck and are much harder to find than one would expect. In a house, when you install something in a wall, floor or ceiling, once it is installed, it never moves, twists, or rubs. When a boat is pounding in rough seas, everything gets pounded, moved, twisted and rubbed so maintenance is a constant issue.

Tomorrow is Sunday and we are going to take it a little easier. Hard work starts again on Monday. Don arrives on Tuesday, and we hope to transit on Thursday.

Hope everyone is well. We are, in Panama.

Best regards,

Joe Dorr

Cosmos Captain